Vietnam was a surprise

Sapa

I don't like when people ask what was my favorite country around the world. Because it's impossible to compare Asia with Europe or South America.

I can at least say that one of the best surprises, if not the best was Vietnam. I wasn't expecting anything. I found a lot.

If, for some, the noise of the motorbikes was disturbing, I found it charming. Of course, crossing the street is a hazardous challenge. But with a deep breath and the sense of adventure, you can make it alive. For me, traffic in Hanoi is asian way of life, nothing more.

To travel in Vietnam, it is better to use the services of a travel agency. The prices are usually better and it's easier to make your way around than trying to go from point A to point B by yourself. Even if it is possible.

If you need to see a travel agent in the country itself, you need to know there are numerous fake agencies. One name, written in different ways, can be used by at least ten agencies, all copying the original one. I made that mistake but managed to negociate a good price anyway.

All in all, I was really touched by my visit in Sapa. It's true the type of trip I was doing looked like it was made for backpackers. But I'm convinced you can find something similar and make it the way you want it. With my backpack, I left Hanoi in the evening for a short night without sleep on a hard sleeper, in a night train. It would stop in Lao Cai, where a bus waited to bring us in Sapa.

Sapa is a village in mutation. Hotels are being built at a very fast pace. But a group trek brought us in a school, in the rice fields, in a bamboo forest, in the mountains where clouds are very low in the morning and the evening. Sleeping at a local's place (let's be honest, his house was more of a dorm), in the middle of the rice fields, was magic and restful.

The women from the village are not restful at all though. Accompanied by children, they try to sell at high prices some bags, clothes or bracelets. But there is a workshop in the village itself, hidden somewhere in the market where the Vietnamese go, where they sell the same products way cheaper.

For the rest, towns are only towns. The soup (pho) is delicious everywhere. But seeing Sapa before it steps too much into modernity was priceless.

Welcome in Cambodia Kingdom

I made it safely in the capital of Cambodia Kingdom, Phnom Penh, after six hours on the bus. Long life the south-east asian roads.

Crossing the border was simple. The bus stopped for a control in Vietnam. Everybody got down, stepped in a building, but nobody would take their luggage with them. I had to think for a minute before I agreed to do as instructed.

Inside, there was a metal detector and a X ray machine for luggages. But it looked like they were not using them today. Maybe they didn't feel like it.

They stamped our passport and we got back on the bus... for a 28 metres ride.

TADAM! Cambodia's border. The employee of the bus company came down with us after gathering the passports and the money. I learned afterwards that the 25 $US I paid were more than the 20 $US it usually costs. So be it.

In Angkor Wat country, still no luggage scan. But they took my fingerprints. They looked at my visa and I was good to go.

The bus made a last stop five minutes later, so we could buy some food or souvenirs. And we headed to the capital.

There, no choice. The tuk-tuk was the best option to get to the hostel. In the pure tradition, the driver said « I know where it is, I know » to convince me to choose him. BUT... he didn't know at all. Anyway, we agreed on a price beforehand. Go ahead man. Take as long as you need, I have all the time in the world.

Saying no to a kid

In the afternoon, I went to explore the city. Because I broke my first pair of sunglasses, lost the second one and bought a third one that was too cheap, I bought fake Ray Bans for 3 $.

But taking my wallet out in the street was like eating a lot of fries next to a McDonald's. Bad idea. The sellers rushed to me trying to convince me to buy stuff.

I bought a bracelet from a 10 or 12 years old girl. For one dollar. That is a lot of money in Cambodia and a bracelet is easier for me to carry than anything else.

At the same time came Little Buddy (That's the name I gave him), the one boy on the picture. How old? Seven, eight? He spends his days in the street, selling scarves and bracelets. To afford school, he says.

I didn't really want another bracelet. But the kid followed me for 15 minutes. Under a really warm sun. I gave up, accepted to buy something if he let me take a picture of him.

How do you say no to a kid that young? I'll need to get stronger because I might come across more of these.

I was wondering if it was better to buy from him or not... Cannot find an answer.

That said, Cambodia is wonderful for now. I expect to spend one more day in Phnom Penh before heading to Battambang on the bus. From there, after one day or two, I'll go to Siem Reap.

Hi, I'm a student

Sapa

Ok! We'll set things clear once and for all. When you come to me saying "Hi! I'm a student. Where are you from?", there is something telling me I can't trust you.

Since my friend Jeannot told me not to talk to strangers, and with what I experienced in China, I'm starting to believe you're trying to get some money from me.

Guess what. In Shanghai, Beijing, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), there are young couples talking to tourists saying they want to practice their english. I've already written about the tea ceremony scam in China. In Vietnam, the intentions are not that obvious.

In Hanoi, I agreed to let a young girl follow me so she could ask some questions to improve her english. But I was fast to set things clear : I didn't have a lot of time to spend with her. She gave up by herself.

Was she sincere? Don't know. But it was clear she wouldn't be able to get any money from me and there was no way she could steal anything from my bag or my pockets.

Had the same experience in Ho Chi Minh City. Left behind a couple who tried to talk to me. When two girls started following me, laughing, and one of them asked for me to answer a couple of questions for a school assignement, I agreed to participate. Again, I kept my belongings really close to me. Maybe they were sincere after all.

Radar

Everywhere in Asia, motorcycle drivers have the eye of an eagle. A tourist just needs to walk around the corner for someone to flag him on the other end of the street. If you are of those having trouble to say no, it's time to practice. Here, you need to say no all the time.

Some insist enough to grab us by the arm... "Where do you go?", they ask.

Saying "no" once and ignoring them is the best solution, I believe. But as soon as you got rid of the first one, another one comes to you. It barely never ends...

And at night, the same drivers offer you to get some massages... They insist for that too...

Adorable Vietnam

Sapa

Vietnam probably is the country I was the less prepared to fly to. Because I didn't know what I wanted to see. Maybe that is why I love the experience I'm living right now.

Vietnam is a little bit like China... but better. There are people who just want our money, trying to convince us to buy so many useless things or to hop on their motorcycle... but they don't insist as much as the Chinese. And they really need our money.

I fought against myself by preparing nothing, booking nothing. Sending planification to hell. Trying to feel zen and to go with the flow.

So I got in Halong Bay for three days, going from island to island on a boat. All of that after booking through a "fake" agency. Hard to tell the real ones from all the copies, even when you know there is a lot of fake ones. At least, I probably got what I paid for.

We got into a grotto before going for some kayak near a floating village and swimming in the salt water of the bay. After that, we slept on the boat. In the meals of seafood, we ate calamari, tofu with tomatoes and... jelly fish.

The next day was a nice bike stroll in the fields and along the water, and we could swim on Monkey Island, where you can see some monkeys, obviously. In the evening, we slept in a hotel where the staff was rude, in Cat Ba, a town that will probably become a very important destination for tourists. One can tell by all the construction in the city. It looks like they are trying to bring people with thick wallets.

Back to Hanoi, my two Australian friends and me got on a train for Sapa, to the north of the country. The train station was interesting since you actually need to cross the rails on foot to board the train.

In Sapa, we walked for 12 km in the rice terraces to spend the night in a typical village. The heat was almost unbearable. Really! In the muddy streets, the buffalos and the children with mud on their face are walking around. Next to the house where we were sleeping, there was a pig we have never seen, but we could hear it well. Gave him the name of Chewbacca.

We started to walk again the next day to cross a bamboo forest where there was so many butterflies. Buffalos again. And still a lot of children without parents around.

In the afternoon, we rented motorcycles to explore even more. About 15 minutes after we left, when I was starting to get used to driving on two wheels, we encountered police officers. Driving licence, they asked.

Oops! In all the luggage reorganization, with the use of two wallets (one with only a couple of notes and the other one hidden somewhere), I thought I got myself in a lot of trouble. No driving licence... It was probably in the hotel. Unless...

The precious document was in my backpack... which I had with me. At home, the licence is always in my wallet, with me. But when I travel, it's not that obvious.

Two of my companions had to go back to the hotel (without their licence) to get their card.

What an adventure!

I still have a couple of days in Vietnam. I'm flying on the 24th for Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), from where I'll leave for Cambodia.

Vietnam visa

Hanoi

Since I got in Hanoi, Vietnam, I can confirm the electronic process to get the Vietnam visa works. But it is possible you encounter some problems on the way.

First, you need to register on www.myvietnamvisa.com. With a credit card or a PayPal account, you pay the fees. It is not the amount for the visa itself, but the service fees.

Two or three days later, by e-mail, you receive an acceptation letter and a list of the people who are part of your "group". Because the company makes requests for groups. So don't be surprised to see so many names on your acceptation letter.

You need to print the documents and two copies of a form you need to fill. You also need a passport picture.

That process is possible only if you get in the country in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City airport. Otherwise, you need to get help from a travel agency.

In Hanoi airport, the desk where you get the visa is clearly marked. You give all the papers, pay the 25 $US in cash. No ATM to be seen anywhere. So make sure you have the money. Afterwards, bingo, you get a visa for 30 days.

However, in Tokyo-Narita airport (where I was leaving from), the employee at the desk clearly had never heard about that procedure. Seeing no visa in my passport, she got worried. When I showed her the acceptation letter, she needed to talk to her boss. The boss looked as surprised as the employee.

She finally made photocopies and decided to let me go. I don't know why, I was getting worried too. Keep smiling! No panic. Deep breath.

Other anecdote : the flight to Hanoi had a stopover in China. Never as easy in China, since I needed to wear a sticker on my clothes to prove I needed to change plane. Instead of identifying the luggages so they get directly to our destination, like everywhere else in the world, we needed to fill a really small coupon with our name, final destination and a phone number to reach us.

Me : Euh... I don't have a phone.
A surprised woman : REALLY?
...
...
(Big silence)
A surprised woman : Put the number of your hotel then.

GET OVER IT! Some people still don't have a phone when they travel, even in 2012!

It is true the payphones are harder to find almost everywhere in the world and some hostels now reduce the time they have someone at the desk. They put a sign on the front door saying you can call 24 hours a day to get in. Like if you're stuck outside at night. That is them assuming everybody has a phone...

Tip

In Vietnam, like in China, Syria or United Arab Emirates, for example, Facebook is censored. It is necessary to install a proxy on your computer BEFORE you get in the country itself if you want to poke you friends while you're there. The most popular one seems to be Freegate. Other than a problem that lasted for a couple of days in China, the software worked well.