Pictures Time!

Because I didn't get to post as many pictures as I thought I would during my trip, I take the time to upload a couple of them from the last days of my adventure. Stay tuned. This blog is not dead.

Malecon, Havana, Cuba

Calle San Miguel, Havana, Cuba

Iguazu Falls, Puerto de Iguazu, Argentina

La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina

La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina

The Pesos Controversy

Even if you're back, you stored you backpack away, you pretend everything is ok, being back brings its share of problems. Some of them are really obvious.

The  "principal" problem until now is to change my cuban convertible pesos (CUC) and my argentinian pesos.

In fact, it seems like it's an impossible mission. I went to the only official currency exchange center in town. I was told that nobody would buy that money back because they are not supposed to leave the country where they were emitted. I was told they MUST buy them back at the airport of their respective countries.

About the cuban pesos, I was told that Canadians usually leave for Cuba and exchange their money at the airport when they get there. They do the same before they come back.

In my case, I tried right after I payed my exit tax of 25 CUC. In spite of the illuminated sign that gives the exchange rate for around ten currencies, the canadian dollar being one of them, they told me it was impossible to buy my CUC back.

I'm sorry. What? After having crossed the border, they said.

Same thing after crossing the border. The currency desk, which has no use from what I understood, refuses to exchange my money. What's the use of an exchange desk if they refuse to change the money?

Maybe I should have tried to get american dollars. But with the number of flights going to Toronto, it's inexplicable that they don't have canadian dollars.

Anyway, I advise you to get rid of your CUC as fast as possible before you leave Cuba. I, for one, an trying to sell them to people who intend to fly to Castro's country.

About the argentinian pesos, I found myself with too many of those after a guided tour I signed for was canceled. They gave me my money back a few hours before I left the country. So I couldn't spend it all. And I didn't think of changing them at the airport.

Again, when I got to Cuba, they refused to take my argentinian pesos. The same when I got to Toronto.

Again, I'm trying to sell those to some people who are planning on leaving for Argentina... Traveling friends are my only hope to get some of my  money back.

Services

To conclude, in the "problems" category, I realized that getting the phone, cell phone, cable, internet services back is not that easy. Even more after six months. Not only did I phone to remind everybody that they promised me I could get all the services back without having anything to do (had to call up to five times in a precise case), but I needed to fight to get a discount for the service I didn't get.

For example, I spent 52 minutes on the phone before they transfered me to the satisfaction department, before they finally agreed on giving me some money back.

After a long trip, if you haven't canceled all your services, plan on losing a lot of time on the phone while they tell you that your phone call is "important for them".

Back in the 60's

Habana

It was the last destination of my trip. Travelers who I asked about my dilemma between Cuba and Puerto Rico all said I should go with Cuba.

True that I felt like I was in another world when I landed on the island. Cuba, its summer heath, was so different from the cold in Buenos Aires.

As soon as I got out of the plane, they asked for my visitor's card and they sent me to security without asking questions.

For security, it seems the country you're from is more important than the luggage scan. When I said I was from Canada, they chose not to open my bag.

Same for another control, where a threatening woman, sitting on a small chair in the middle of the room, asked where I was from. Canada was the magic word.

I waited forever for my bag, but it finally came. I said Canada a third time to get out without any problem.

Before calling for a cab, because it is not too tempting to take public transportation in Cuba, I changed all my euros and part of my american dollars in cuban convertible pesos. Because they refused to change my argentinian pesos. And I wasn't sure I could find some ATMs.

For people like me, note cuban convertible pesos (CCU) is for tourists, with an exchange rate of one for one american dollar. After, you can exchange CCU for national money (1 CCU = 24 pesos in national money). So we need to make sure the change we get is in the correct currency.

I was told a taxi from the airport would always cost 25 CCU. What you discover afterwards is it is possible to negociate. When I left the island, for the same trajectory, I paid 20 CCU.

Anyway, like I said, I felt like I was in another world. From the backseat of my taxi, I felt like I was filming an episode of Pan Am. The roads looked like they were  made at another time and they are not well maintained. Houses and buildings, half built, are frozen in time, like all those cars which probably only have the body from the past. And there is all those people, waiting for a bus where it doesn't seem like there is a bus stop.

For the first day, I couldn't miss the Capitol, some colorful little houses, those people who literally live in their doorway, sitting on the side of the road.

I went to an official cigar store... and the appartement of a stranger who sells cigars, real or fake, with a discount.

I went through an endless rain, supposedly rare... and the beggining of a cold which I started to fear considering I needed to take a plane a couple of days later.

In Cuba, I found great people. People who always have a father, a cousin or a brother living in Toronto. They ask for our name and offer to share a coffee, a beer, to find a woman who does bang-bang. Sometimes, it feels like Thailand...

Having a clear deadline, I didn't want to exagerate. I walked Habana from the old town to the Revolution place. I visited the Necropolis, a cimetery, and the Cuban Arts Museum. I can't forget the fortifications on the other side of the bay, where I was told how they work in the control tower.

"If it's a Canadian boat, we say welcome. If it's a French boat, we say welcome. If it's an American boat, we get the canons and we say boom!" 

At least, that is clear. 

Chance being on my side, I could see the last day of Habana carnival.

The Cuban Visa

Last (I hope) saga about a visa.

Two weeks and some days away from going home, it is time to think about the stopover I planned in Cuba. Because yes, Ladies and Gentlemen, we need a visa to visit Castro's country. At least, that's what one can read on the canadian governement website.

In fact, it is necessary to get a "visitor's card". Most Canadians get one when they book through a travel agency. It means they often ignore they need it because they didn't have to ask for it. But for a nomad like me, who booked online, it is necessary to go to the consulate to get the piece of paper.

Informations are contradictory online. In some places, they'll say it is possible to pay to get the card at the airport in Habana. Others say you'll need the card at check-in or you'll be denied boarding.

No need to take chances. I found the correct list of documents I needed. Passport, a copy of my ticket, proof of stay... Form filled (impossible to find it online), proof of insurance and other papers also appear on some lists online. Hard to find your way.

Same for the time needed to get the card. Mystery.

I asked people at my hostel to phone the consulate in Sao Paulo (yo no hablo el portuguese) to ask. They said with my documents, I would get the visa the same day.

Took my courage (and patience) in both my hands and headed to the consulate. Got there 40 minutes before it closed. Was the last one in.

I thought it would be harder. But the visa guy was really nice, understood I didn't speak portuguese. With a half filled form, because I didn't know what to write in most of the spaces to fill, and a signature, the man was happy. I needed a copy of my ticket, a copy of my passport and a proof of stay in a hostel.

Couple of minutes later, he printed my card. I can get in Cuba without any problem.

Was easy.