A simple goodbye to Africa

Cape Town, South Africa

There was no way we would let our last day in Africa go without making the best out of it. The optimists thought four hours were all we needed to go from Wilderness to Cape Town. Me and my friend woke up at 6 AM to bring back the car where it belongs.

We're still debating to see if we should be proud of it or not, but we litteraly "opened" a McDonald's like others "close" the bars. For breakfast. Because no other options. No time to lose : the road ahead was long enough.

In the end, it took five hours, maybe more, to reach our destination. After the third "Wake Me Up Before You Go Go", rain started to fall. Hard. Well, not that much. But enough for the radio to ask drivers to stay home. Several accidents had already happened and were blocking the roads in the big city. It felt like a big snowstorm in Quebec. For a simple rain shower.

Anyway, the wheather situation, with temperature going down, was reassuring about us missing out on the expedition to Robben Island. We would have been miserable had we gone. My shoes, the only pair in my bag, were still damp from the day before. Nothing to help.

So we spent the last part of the day eating, comparing the price of items we bought to see if they were cheaper in the souvenir shop or after we negociated with locals (generally, we saved money. Woot!) and visiting District 6 museum. One needs time and a taste for reading to appreciate the museum... When we got out, while we had paid for our parking, a street guard tried to get some money out of us. We couldn't leave Africa without escaping a scam.

But that was not the end of the adventure for us, who were a little short on time to give the car back and make sure my copilot would catch his plane. Yes, yes, yes, a big traffic jam on the highway. And... yes, yes, yes, the fuel sign lit to tell us the Ferrari was thirsty, right there, in the middle of a sea of cars. You know, when you really don't want to see what happens when you run out of gaz and need to search for it while driving to the airport.

With stress on our mind, we fueled the car and got to the rental desk on time. We still needed to clean the car (two guys, two weeks, a car... See the picture?). Anyway, we had time to eat a snack and to dry my shoes before we split.

The copilot disappeared for the security controls while the check-in counter for my flight was still not open. I saw my friend's plane take off before I could finally get rid of my luggage.

Boarding the KLM plane, after having three hours to kill on my own, I had that strange feeling I would be back soon on the african continent.

And for those wondering, yes, we got the picture from the photo radar. Speeding on the South African highway didn't go unnoticed.

Pictures from South Africa

While you're waiting for the rest of my adventures in South Africa, here are a couple of pictures taken from Cape Town to Gordon's Bay.

Karma hits in Cape Town

On top of Table Mountain

Let's be honest : one needs a lot of time to make it to South Africa. About 20 hours on the plane from Montreal. With a stopover. Not good news for those who can't sleep while they fly.

First thing that hit me in Cape Town, at least since it was dark and I couldn't appreciate the landscape, was how each house is surrounded with concrete walls and barb wires. Reassuring!

Considering how late it was when I got in the south of Africa, I almost went directly to bed. The next day, thanks summer, I woke up with a shining sun. At least 25 degrees, 40 sometimes, for the curious ones.

At the bottom of Lion's Head

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My first stop, to meet with my travel friend, was at the waterfront, under the Clock Tower, where you can see clearly Table Mountain. Already, I noticed I had to be careful about the birds. There is a lot of them and they tend to be... dirty.

We decided to visit Table Moutain first. Because it was a clear day. No clouds. When clouds get in, there is no use to go up there. Won't see anything. Our transportation : Hop-on, Hop-off bus, a first for me, since I try to avoid those touristic circuits.

If you have time, you can spend a few hours on top of the mountain or walk all the way up. We chose the lift (205 rands). The view is totally worth it and if you're lucky, you can see small animals. We got the chance to see a curious little lizard. And like everywhere else we've been in South Africa, we had no problem with the crowd. You can move freely without being annoyed.

The road back leaded us near the rich houses and mansions close to Clifton Beaches, and we saw the parks near the Waterfront, where people go to get in shape.

The next day, I explored Bo-Kaap, its colorful houses and its museum. I then went around the CBD, small and with a limited amount of attractions, and found out you need to negociate at the market. Hard. But if you won't bend, you'll get the price you want.

Those who wish to bring a souvenir back home have the choice between many animals sculpted in wood or stone, music instruments, games... Strangely, not only all the sellers have a relative living in Toronto, but they are all sculptors themselves... Except women. They sell what their brother make. Of course not the one from Toronto. Another one!

The plan for the afternoon was to visit Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. We planned weeks ahead. Because one needs to book a ticket for the ferry at least two or three days ahead. If not : sold out. We are smart!

Problem! For technical reasons, the boat we had booked, the last one of the day, was canceled. Since we were expecting to leave town the next day, we asked for a refund and crossed our fingers we could catch a ferry later before leaving South Africa.

Instead, we climbed Lion's Head, another mountain, wishing to see the sunset, in spite of the fog. It takes about one hour to go up. From the top, when the fog goes away, you get a 360 degrees view. It is advised to bring a snack (which we didn't do), water and a flashlight. Going back down in the dark may be hard without light.

The best way to reach Lion's Head is by car or by taxi.

Dangers of South Africa

South Africa is believed to be a country where danger is everywhere. For tourists, at least. On the canadian governement website, there is a recommandation to be very careful in the country. Should we really worry?

I can't tell about big towns I didn't visit, like Durban, Johannesburg or Pretoria. But it doesn't seem like there is any reason to avoid Cape Town.

When I got in my hostel, couple of blocks away from the Waterfront, a very touristic area, rules were pretty clear : never walk the streets alone at night, leave passport and wallet in a locker in the hostel and take a taxi as soon as the sky stops being blue. It is also recommended to be careful around Long Street, where the bars and night clubs are.

First thing, like everywhere else, one should take the usual measures to avoid trouble. Know pickpockets are all around, take care of your personnal belongings, like jewels and cameras. You can carry a decoy wallet you'll give someone who tries to steal anything from you.

To my friend who stayed in a hotel, someone said to take a taxi even if he was two blocks away from his destination and if there was no danger to be seen around.

That way, we became more nervous more because of the rumors than the real threats.

True that the South Africans disappear when the sun goes down. Streets are deserted. Nobody around. So it is easy to imagine nobody will step up for you if you get in trouble. That is where some discomfort come from when you feel all alone in that big city.

I've been alone in those streets, at night, twice. I had my hands and pockets empty, but I can tell I never felt threathened.

Still, during the day, one should be careful about people trying to get some money from them, especially by trying to overcharge you for a parking spot.

In smaller cities, streets also get empty early. The doors of the car should always be locked. It is probably better to avoid the hitchikers on the road too and to only go in townships with tour guides. Always negociate in markets.

They say one should also avoid stopping for people pretending they had an accident on the road. But we didn't get in a situation like that.

In the end, South Africa didn't seem more dangerous than any other country I visited.

Unexpected Africa

They say one should fight fire with fire.

Which means?

Which means that after the blues of being back from a long adventure, it is sometimes better not to ask too many questions. And to seize the opportunities when they come.

So South Africa invited itself in the portrait. Nowhere on my radar yet : a little far, expensive, not easy to take time off from work... again.

Or maybe... The proposition came from an Austrian friend who bought his ticket for Cape Town. Stars aligned themselves. Too bad for the doubts and the expenses. After all, money is made to be spent.

True we hear South Africa can be dangerous. I asked other travelers. Nothing too bad at first glance. I for one have no doubts.

No need for a visa to get in Oscar Pistorius country. At least, not when you're a simple tourist. The only hard thing is to find a "short" flight. From North America, one needs at least one stopover... three sometimes. In my case, the best and shortest option seemed to stop in Amsterdam before leaving for 12 more hours towards Cape Town. If lucky, you can find a ticket for less than 1500 $.

The plan, for now, is to spend two days near Moutain Table, also visiting Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. They say it is better to buy tickets in advance, online, to visit. Done!

We'll then ride along the south coast towards Addo National park, known for its elephants population. Crossing our fingers to see lions, rhinos and other big 5 animals. We have already booked a night drive in the park to get the best experience possible. We'll also sleep in the park for two nights, one of them being in a tent near the water hole. There again, it is better to book ahead of time. Especially in summer. I was lucky to get the last lodge for the night I wanted, booking three weeks in advance.

The website for the South African national parks is a good source of information and allows some bookings. It might be hard to navigate on it though.

I also found a ziplining experience in Tsitsikama park. We'll see if it seems as fun once I really have to slide up in the air.

If technology allows it, I'll update as I go.

Crossing my fingers, I say a temporary adios to winter.