The good things hostels do

Orie in front of her hostel, the 1166 Backpackers, in Nagano.

The quality of a hostel, of the people we meet there, of the services we get, will influence how we see a city or even a country.

If I've already given tips to choose the right hostel, I thought of giving examples of what made the difference sometimes. I went with the hostels I liked enough to recommend them on my links page.

• Pella Inn - Athens
  The strength of Pella Inn was not in its rooms, small, or in the price of the laundry, very high. In this case, the location was key. It was easy to reach the main sites, like the Acropole. But the main thing was the rooftop bar with a view on the Parthenon. Hard to go to bed when you can admire the ruins all night long. Extra points for the employees, some of the nicest I met.
• Ngoc Thao Guesthouse - Ho Chi Minh City
  In Vietnam, this hostel has a family vibe. That is because it is family owned. You can often meet the owners in their pyjama, in the morning or in the evening, because they live there. Their children play with the clients. And because there is no other employees, if they want to remain open, they'd better offer good services. They make the breakfast and have pertnership with trustable companies for tours. There is enough people to make sure someone is always ready to help at the reception.
• Kyoto Hana Hostel - Kyoto
  Two fantastical ideas, other than the possibilty to rent bikes : curtains around the beds to avoid light from disturbing guests and to give intimacy, and on the inside door of the bathroom, posters with the translation of some keywords in Japanese... It's obvious they are read.
• Goodnight Hostel - Lisbon
  If the mattresses are old, Goodnight Hostel differenciate itself because of the staff who can recognize most of the guests and call them by their name all the time. If they don't remember you, you have with you a card they have given upon arrival to confirm you were a guest. The living room, without a television, has a L shaped couch, ideal for meetings and discussions with strangers.
• 1166 Backpackers - Nagano
  In the house of the only owner, Orie, this hostel feels like you're staying at a local's place. On the first floor, there is a huge table where all the guest sit inevitably. On the wall, a map with pins telling where the previous guest were from. And there is Orie, sometimes offering food or sake...
• St-Christophers - Prague
  Almost a hotel, the St-Christophers has huge bathrooms with toilets recuperating rain water. The lights turn themselves off when there is nobody inside the room. Same for the temperature, which adjusts according to the number of guests. The beds are huge, like the pillows, and lockers on wheels, also huge, are placed under the beds. The large windows can be completely covered by opaque curtains. Rare in hostels
• Adventure Queenstown Hostel and Chalet - Queenstown
  This hostel is owned by an experienced traveler. Decoration is made with pictures he took around the world, with bank notes he gathered traveling. Good idea : the quiz at night. Teams are randomly formed with guests from everywhere. They need to answer general knowledge questions. No choice to talk to each other. Reward for the winners : free beer.
  Congrats for the wooden structures for the beds. No noise. For the bean bags we can sit on in the rooms. For the power supply in the lockers, so you can charge your phone or computer while sleeping. For those velcro tag you put on the beds for 1) claiming them 2) introducing yourself to the other travelers. For the individual reading lights. For the power supply for each bed. One often need to search for them in hostels.
• Hey Hostel - Sao Paulo
  When the owner has traveled around the world for seven months, he knows what he's talking about. 24 h reception, security cameras, a computer linked with a big flat screen on the wall, to help with communications sometimes, a wall completely made of a blackboard, to draw, to leave a message, to inform...  plastic bottles in which spices grow, outside, and of course power supply in the lockers.

All of them offered free wi-fi. Note the inner courtyard, with no roof, used as a common room at Backpackers HQ in Sydney, the restaurant in the hostel at Phoenix Hostel in Shanghai, the warm feeling in Purple Gobelin in Tallin, giving the impression you are couchsurfing, where you can play poker with owners like they were travelers too. Good points for Che Lagarto in Brazil, where they have 110 and 220 volts plugs.

We like the sinks outside the bathrooms too and the typical free dinner some hostels offer sometimes.

Vietnam was a surprise

Sapa

I don't like when people ask what was my favorite country around the world. Because it's impossible to compare Asia with Europe or South America.

I can at least say that one of the best surprises, if not the best was Vietnam. I wasn't expecting anything. I found a lot.

If, for some, the noise of the motorbikes was disturbing, I found it charming. Of course, crossing the street is a hazardous challenge. But with a deep breath and the sense of adventure, you can make it alive. For me, traffic in Hanoi is asian way of life, nothing more.

To travel in Vietnam, it is better to use the services of a travel agency. The prices are usually better and it's easier to make your way around than trying to go from point A to point B by yourself. Even if it is possible.

If you need to see a travel agent in the country itself, you need to know there are numerous fake agencies. One name, written in different ways, can be used by at least ten agencies, all copying the original one. I made that mistake but managed to negociate a good price anyway.

All in all, I was really touched by my visit in Sapa. It's true the type of trip I was doing looked like it was made for backpackers. But I'm convinced you can find something similar and make it the way you want it. With my backpack, I left Hanoi in the evening for a short night without sleep on a hard sleeper, in a night train. It would stop in Lao Cai, where a bus waited to bring us in Sapa.

Sapa is a village in mutation. Hotels are being built at a very fast pace. But a group trek brought us in a school, in the rice fields, in a bamboo forest, in the mountains where clouds are very low in the morning and the evening. Sleeping at a local's place (let's be honest, his house was more of a dorm), in the middle of the rice fields, was magic and restful.

The women from the village are not restful at all though. Accompanied by children, they try to sell at high prices some bags, clothes or bracelets. But there is a workshop in the village itself, hidden somewhere in the market where the Vietnamese go, where they sell the same products way cheaper.

For the rest, towns are only towns. The soup (pho) is delicious everywhere. But seeing Sapa before it steps too much into modernity was priceless.

How to choose a hostel?

USA Hostels in Los Angeles

Even if you want to save money, you need to be careful when comes the time to choose your hostel. To sleep well, it might be necessary to pay a little more.

If it happened that I wasn't satisfied by some of the hostels I chose, I usually ended up in good places. Why?

- Booking early allows to choose in a large number of hostels. But... being last minute might help you take advantage of a cancellation. No place to sleep? Ask at the reception how long they do keep the bed for a no-show. And wait. Sometimes, it works. Otherwise, the fuller the hostel is, the more popular it might be... Could be a good sign.

- Know that websites like hostelbookers and hostelworld only show a part of the beds available. If you call the hostel directly, it happens they might have beds left even if the internet tells you the opposite.

- Look at the average rating. Cross that information with the number of clients who left a comment. The place may have a perfect score of 100 %, if that result is based only on one comment, it might only be the opinion of the owner. I was told some hostels with bad comments erase their account to start fresh. But it's not the majority. A hostel with a few comments only may also be a very new one. It's up to you to see if you take the risk. But if the owners want to keep their business open, they will never offer as many services as when they just opened.

- The comments. If the ratings are important, the comments are at least as crucial. They explain the ratings. Sometimes, people complain because the soap is not included in the hostel. Because somebody snored in their room. Because they didn't like the color on the walls. Because they found dirt on a shelf... You take some... You leave some. But it's a good way to know if the place is a bed bugs nest. If you can see the age of the person who commented, you can also find out what kind of people stays in that hostel.

- Know what you need. Want to sleep? The smaller dorms offers the best chance not to share a room with a snorer. Want to meet people? Big dorms might be for you. Know that younger people travel more on a budget and usually choose bigger dorms to save money. The more expensive a hostel is, the more chances you have to meet young professionnals, in their mid-20's, and older backpackers. I usually choose those.

- The services. In 2012, if you don't have wi-fi in the hostel, you're kind of late. But be careful, in some places, you'll need to pay to use the internet. Search for the word "free" in front of the wi-fi word. On the same subject, most places give free breakfast. Do they have a common room, a curfew, DVD's, a restaurant, parking, lockers, private bathrooms, bicycles to rent, a tour desk?

- The description on the website. Reading the property information helps find out a lot of information. If it is fun, easy to read and complete, you can guess the services will be great. Same for the amount of pictures that show the rooms where you may sleep. Same for the directions to help you get to the hostel.

- Private hostel or a chain? Yes, there are chains of hostels like USA Hostels in United States, Wombats, Saint-Christophers Inn, in Europe, Nomads in Oceania, Che Lagarto in South America or Hi-International, everywhere in the world, like in Canada. These hostels look more like hotels. They have a lot of rooms. The employees are usually very professionnal. The buildings are huge. Impersonal. You are almost sure to find some quality. On the other hand, private hostels, where owners are younger and often live there, are more authentic. There are only a few rooms and it's often easier to meet other travelers there. Cleanliness and services depend on the quality of the owners.

- Location. Some hostel say it "only" takes 30 minutes to get downtown with the metro. Tranquillity might be what you're searching for. If not, the further away you go, the harder it is, usually, to move around.

So, as far as I'm concerned, I mix prices, location, ratings, the number of beds in the dorm and the pictures to make a decision. The result is good most of the time.

And please, if you sleep in a hostel, leave a comment to help other travelers to make a choice.

Why stay in hostels?

Hostel in Xi'an

What is a hostel? Why would you sleep there? It must be impossible to get a good night of sleep in there... You are courageous to go in these kind of places.

When I first heard about hostels, I was 21 years old. I was told it was cheaper and less comfortable than a hotel, that you needed to bring your sleeping bag or to pay for the sheets, that the dorms had 10 beds, that I could get bed bugs, that the showers were dirty and that hot water was often just an option.

Hostel in Beijing.

That is crap! Well, it wasn't really eight years ago. But hostels got better. Backpackers ask for more. The places which can't adapt won't get good comments on hostelworld or hostelbookers or tripadvisor. That is not good for business.

I know what I'm talking about. I visited 58 hostels in six months. At least 75 in my traveling life. I tried several things. And I still book in hostels when I go on the road.

What is true is that hostels are cheaper than hotels. You will find guests between the age of 18 and 80 years old, with more young ones than the ones with wisdom.

The concept : yes, there are dorms. Of 3 to 26 beds. The more beds they have, the cheaper it is. The cost usually includes the sheets, more and more, a reading light for each bed, a locker for your valuables, a wifi connexion and a breakfast. The time where you would get dry bread and a sip of bad coffee is behind you, Most meals are good enough.

If some mattresses make noise or can be uncomfortable, most of the time, it is possible to have a good night of sleep... even if it happens that the roomates are not disciplined enough.

Advantages, other than the cost, the internet connexion and the meal? The employees know trendy places, off the beaten track, or tips to help you save money in the city. They know the public transportation system, know exactly what you should see, speak good english and can teach you some words in the local language. They will write a note for you for the taxi driver or the train station cashier.


Hostels are often really well located or in places you need to explore. If they thought about everything, there is a common room where people gather to chat at every hour of the day or the night. You sit with a group of strangers, you say hi, and there you go, discussion is underway. And the solo traveler finds something to do.

That's the best part of it : meeting other travelers, from everywhere, with stories all more interesting than the others, who travel for different reasons. They also can share their knowledge, tips, life experience.

About cleanliness, again, most of the places are great. Same for the bathrooms, that are more and more private. I once slept in a hostel where the toilet used rain water to preserve the environnement. Efforts are made despite the low prices.

Yes, you'll find a snorer once in a while. Or a sleeping beast who never leaves the bed, event to shower. But for each bad experience, there is a lot of good ones.

Hostels are everywhere... Why not stay there?

Soundtrack of My Life

Music lulls most of our life, if only because the radio screams in the background while we live pure moments of joy or sadness. In some ways, the songs make the soundtrack of our life, because hearing those songs again brings memories back.

I have already posted the Jason Mraz song Details in the fabric, which came randomly while I needed something to comfort me. "Hold your own, know your name, and go your own way" the song says. I had listened to that cd but couldn't recall that song. But one night, watching the sunset, the song made its way into my souvenirs box.

Same for the Coldplay song Fix you, heard at some funerals where I was troubled. To see a 20 year old guy leave for the cemetery, I knew I needed to realize my projects while I could.

Strangely, towards the end of my trip, in the village of Paraty in Brazil, the radio was just emitting noises to me when I heard Fix you. That song wasn't even a single the radios played. The driver had decided to play the cd...

The next day, still in Paraty, I spent the day on a boat. While we were stopping in a bay, the speakers were giving us Details in the fabric. Still not a single. Still a cd. What was the chances to hear both significant songs in 24 hours.

For those interested, here are ten songs that are now in my souvenirs box, which makes the soundtrack of my trip. Luckily or not. You can't choose these things.

Living in the Moment - Jason Mraz
The album Love is a Four Letter Word came out while I was traveling. Living in the moment, the essential of the message of the song, really appealed to me.

Call Me Maybe - Carly Rae Jepsen
Without any doubt the success of the summer, Call Me Maybe, caught most people attention. Was impossible not to hear it. Like it or not, lots of my friends ended up singing it. When I hear it, I still smile.

Aujourd'hui ma vie c'est d'la marde - Lisa Leblanc
I totally fell for Lisa Leblanc's album. I listened to it a lot, especially in Brazil. Her song with very colourful lyrics made me smile.

We Are Young - Fun. 
I admit I did not listen to the lyrics. I only know the title, which they repeat in every chorus. And the melody got engraved in my soul. I was watching those backpackers who were discovering life at the same time they were discovering the world, some were 18 years old, some were 23, and they had fun without thinking of the next day. Because they had time. Because these are the moments they will look back at saying to themselves they lived while they could. And living in the moment, while we can, can make us young too.

Ho Hey - The Lumineers
To be honest, I had never heard of the Lumineers before. That song is the perfect example of a soundtrack playing in the background and making us nostalgic.

Février - Vincent Vallières
Listening to Vallières sing Février (February), on February 29th (for a short month that never ends, like the song says) in New Zealand (around the end of summer in the southern hemisphere), it's really funny. And comforting. When I hear it, I see mount Tangariro getting further and further through the bus window. And me, laughing alone in a sea of anglophone tourists who wouldn't understand the song if I didn't explain.

Your Home - Alanis Morissette
When you have a lot of time to listen to music, in planes, in trains, in buses or while you're trying to cover the noise, you rediscover songs you had never listen to carefully before. That hidden track on the Jagged Little Pill album is a good example.

Home - Phillip Phillips
Strangely, the songs talking about home, about knowing where we're from, wanting to get back to our native land, are always close. Strange in a trip where the notion of the place we call home is blurring... When we're telling ourselves home might not be in a specific place.

I Will Remember You - Ryan Cabrera
Here is another nostalgic touch that reminds me of those people I met randomly and that I now call my friends. Impossible to forget them.

Geneviève Jodoin
When I wanted to listen to french music, I was often playing Geneviève Jodoin G's album.

Traveling at home

Quebec parliament

Who said you can't be a tourist in your home country? It's true we usually feel ridiculous to get lost in Québec or Montréal, while we wouldn't care in Paris or Rio. It's also true that we'll wait to retire to explore the land around our house. And it's also true that we travel more around our country to visit friends than to pay interest to the particularities of some of its cities. Most of the time, I mean.

It's while welcoming an austrian friend that I started to wonder what there was to do in Québec City. Of course, there is the parliament, the Plains of Abrahams, the Old Town, but what more?

I then consulted tourist guides, and to make sure I would get the total experience, I booked a bed in the Hi-International hostel in Québec, on Ste-Ursule street, in the old town. It's also because that is where my friend would sleep.

In two days, walking through the old town, going down in Petit Champlain and the lower part of town, going around Orléans Island and climbing the steps to the top of Montmorency Falls, I found the outside of time freedom of the tourist in me. The same relationship with strangers in the hostel, same relationship with the waitresses in the restaurants, the employees of the shops or the museums.

Which proves there is no need to go far to feel you're away, free.

And there is a little something about feeling the usual atmosphere of a hostel... with something totally québécois. Felt like the average hostel... with nothing to be too impressed about.

In other countries, I was told it's hard to communicate in english in Québec City. It seems like it's getting easier. At least, most of the people tried politely to communicate and to be understood with the non-francophones.

Finally, there is something really interesting about getting the opinions of the other travelers about our cities and our culture.