Pictures of Istanbul

To take a break, here are a couple of pictures of Istanbul.

Detour by Taksim Square

Istanbul University

It smells like the end of a journey in Turkey. But still have another warm day to visit the Beyazit mosque before getting on Istanbul University's campus.

There, we couldn't get too close because of security controls. We gave up and went around the building. What was surprising was the outside stand to sell school supplies...

We visited another mosque before going back down to our hostel, where we would meet our new friend. Together, we walked towards Taksim Square, where most protest against prime minister Erdogan took place. We were told it would be safer to go during the day.

We crossed Galata bridge and walked up slowly along a walking street. We then stopped at a restaurant. The closer Taksim Square was, the bigger the crowd was, even if there was no violent activity.

Everywhere around Taksim Square were police officers. Water canons were aligned so they wouldn't block the traffic. Already, it felt like walking on eggs. Not the time to be extravagant. We needed to blend in the crowd.

We got closer to Gezi park, where there was already some construction work being done. Police officers were watching the entrance, so it was intimidating to take pictures.

We walked on the square itself and took the time to chat with the protesters, most of them being silent, standing without moving.

There were abandoned shoes to symbolize the people who got hurt or killed in the protests. Others were blindfolded, holding a balance to illustrate justice.

We were told about the death of a protester, how friends and family we staying on Taksim Square to pay tribute to him. We pretended to agree with our translator, who said protesters were just people searching for a fight. Was better not to contradict anybody, to listen and avoid stating an opinion.

We suspected some policemen were going around dressed as tourists or civilians. They were always close to us and made two young girls leave the square.

After a long conversation, we determined it was time to leave. Around Taksim Square, my North American head wasn't pleasing the water vendors, who were trying to get more money out of me. It took me four or five attempts to get a reasonable price.

We went back down through new streets to end up in front of protesters going up to the square. They were done working. They were walking together, shouting some slogans. Intimidating.

After hesitating about following them or not, we decided to go back to our hostel... where other travelers were already talking about going out at night.

There again, we hesitated. Pressure was strong. In a group, we negotiated for two cabs so we could go in Beyoglu. In the dark, the landscape had changed. People were running, their mouth and eyes were covered. Others were selling diving masks...

We got to the bar, where we needed to climb six, seven or eight levels to reach the last floor. The view was very nice. Big windows were covering three of the walls. Strangely, there were not a lot of people partying.

We had just started drinking our bear when we passed our heads through the window to look outside. The crowd was running in the streets. Slowly, my eyes started to burn. The tear gaz was going up and up and up. Even if we closed the windows, it was too late. The few people inside rushed to the stairs.

Eyes, throat, lungs were burning. With a little water in the face, between two floors, we were getting better and decided to leave immediately.

We jumped in a taxi, between a line of police officers on one sidewalk, and a line of protesters on the other sidewalk. On the way back, we crossed a taxi with its doors wide open. Men were hitting on the passengers. No time to understand what was happening. We kept on going.

The night before we left Turkey, we had quite a dose of emotions.

In French, here is the article I wrote  for La Tribune and La Nouvelle newspapers as I was still in Turkey. I'm telling about the events I lived there.

Where to go next?

I'm still far from done on telling my stories about Turkey. Still have all the Netherlands to tell about. Procrastination, when you lead us... But fear nothing, it's not stopping me from dreaming and from planning the next trip.

There will be a first adventure this fall. Still have to choose where. Peru and Bolivia have a head start. I'll have to make a decision between the two, or change my mind just before booking, like I often do. Since it'll be winter in the northern hemisphere, I'm pretty sure I'll get close to the equator anyway.

The biggest step ahead, nonetheless, will come in January. I've been talking about that for more than a year. I started working on it... Everything points out at a landing in New Delhi around January 6. India! Yes, it brings a little vertigo. But I need to push myself. That's where I need to go.

To get there, one needs a visa before taking off. Usually valid for six months, it's validity starts right at the moment you get it. So you need to calculate your time wisely.

My picture has already been taken and I filled the form on the website at this address
: https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/visa/

There you'll find an answer to all your questions.

What will my itinerary be? Don't know. Will certainly have the time to tell you more about that. Adventure is just starting.

Shopping break

Short digression from the adventures to talk shopping.

We almost missed the little Aponia shop and Supermind Coffee as we were walking back from a stroll in Taksim square in Istanbul.

It's because a group of screaming protesters had just passed us. But my traveling buddies are coffee lovers and they also wanted to look at some t-shirts. So we took a little break


What is amazing about this place is you find a counter right next to the door. There, according to the owner, they serve "decent coffee". If you go further in the shop, you'll find some t-shirts and posters designed but Istanbul artists. Everything is made in Turkey.

We stopped to smile while appreciating the catchy designs. They are unpretentious. And because it was cheaper for each t-shirt if we bought two or three, we were very tempted.

We smiled reading "They call it chaos, we call it home", a joke about Istanbul. What about that animal claiming "Love is my leash" or those soldiers shadows, some with guns, some with umbrellas. I was particularly touched by that one with the word "Life". I didn't get it at first, until I could see those two little batteries with the words "Fear" and "Hope"... meaning fear and hope are the power of life. I bought it!

When I went to pay, I could talk with the owner himself. The paper bag in which they put the t-shirts are made to become posters too.

That lovely shop deserved a post to itself.

For those visiting Istanbul, you'll find Aponia shop at
101 A Galipdede
or
116 Istiklal Avenue

You can also visit facebook.com/aponiastore

A stop at the Grand Bazaar

Grand Bazaar

If there is a place you can't miss in Istanbul, apart from the Blue Mosque, it's the Grand Bazaar. Everybody knows their clients are mostly tourists, but it's still interesting to walk through it.

First conclusion : this place is very crowded.

Second conclusion : one needs to negotiate a lot to get a good price. We know they are going to make a lot of money because of us, but most things can be found at different stands, so it is possible to compare the prices.

Other life lesson, after finding very high prices : if the man (most of the sellers are men) is not nice, he doesn't deserve your money. You need to at least have a little fun. If you stay nice too, it is possible to get a very good discount.

Spices, tea, candies, scarves, wallets, chess games, toys, hookahs... you can find anything at any price.

And without a good sense of orientation, it is possible you get lost easily.

What was interesting was to get lost in the small streets behind the bazaar when we exited. The true Istanbul life, with women taking care of children in the streets, was just in front of us. It was beautiful and made us want to take our time.

In the afternoon, we finally stopped in Aya Sofia, that old mosque they converted in a museum. What you can see there is catholic images under the Muslim paintings...

We then stopped at the Blue Mosque again because we found out it was impossible to get in, for tourists, when it's prayer time. But in the community center next to it, they explain what Islam is all about... for free. Tea and sweets are also free...

We ended the night at the hostel, where they offered us fish on the barbecue... and some silly weird games to enjoy ourselves. Hostel life is also about that.

Spice Market and Galata Tower

Galata Tower

The return from Göreme went better than the way to get there. Maybe because I wasn't that sick anymore. But services were better with the Suha bus company.

By chance, a very helpful Turkish guy was sitting just behind us. Not only did he offer some cookies for us to taste, but he let us know when it was time to step down.

Back in Istanbul busy bus station, around 7 AM. Still sleepy, we were wondering how to get to our new hostel. The helpful Turkish man helped us get in a free shuttle. For those who are trying to help, know that the back door will close by itself. No need to try to close it... and have people to laugh at you.

Right in Sultahnamet, we found ourselves on the sidewalk, searching for the hostel. When you're tired, it's harder to find your way around. We searched for a while...

Talking about something that is hard, try getting a good shower on the sixth floor of an old turkish building... You may not get any water.

Anyway! We reunited with our friend Gisele and we visited the Spice Market. Colors and smells are totally worth going there. But if you want to buy anything... negociate. Harder. And if you pretend you want to buy some turkish delights, maybe they'll let you taste some...

For those who want something different, a ferry may bring you in the asian part of the town. When it's sunny, the ride on the Golden Horn is very beautiful. On the other bank, you may ride a dolmus, one of those taxis where you kind of need to know how much you should pay. And you need to ask the driver when you want to get out. Having someone else who speaks english is a big asset.

In Kadikoy, the most interesting thing to do is walk the streets, go shopping or just watch the rhythm of life. Fresh fruit juices stands are really attracting too.

Back on the quay, it is possible to get on a one hour or one and a half hour cruise on the Bosphorus. No need to book ahead. There are a lot of companies and they go almost every thirty minutes... The smarter ones will go just before night falls so they can do one way with day light and come back in the dark : the best of two worlds.

Hungry people will try the grilled fish you can find anywhere near the water for five turkish liras. Eating in one of the Galata Bridge restaurants might be expensive though.

And talking about the Galata Bridge, the tower of the same name offers great views over the city. There again, a meal at the restaurant will cost a lot. But looking around from the top of it is worth it.

A year and four continents later

Paraty, Brazil

There it is, potentially the last page of the story. I've been back from my adventures around the world for a year now. Last celebrations, maybe. Because life is like that. We count the days between us and an important event, we celebrate the first anniversary, and we forget it until a decade has gone.

One year, it goes so fast. But it's a long time too. I now talk about my trip in the past tense, like it happened centuries ago. Images are frozen, life goes on, and I hate myself for that. I still have photo albums to make, stories to tell, but time goes...

Life pushes us forward. Time does it too. And if we slow it down a little when the passport becomes the most precious thing we have, it gets its speed back once we sit behind the computer at work.

I met a friend in Japan. He is now going around the world himself. I smile for each of his pictures. I see those places I've been to, the happiness I left behind since I couldn't steal it away from those foreign lands.

It will have taken me four months to come back completely. To accept to be home. But I left again. Three times. On four continents. And I hear the call to go again, stronger day after day. I'm still convinced that one day, I'll disappear. I'll sail away, and that's it.

If there is a thing I accepted, is that people will say I'm lucky. That I shouldn't want to leave again after being on the road so much. Others, I let them talk.

I learned I should live for myself first, even if I can't do it perfectly. I learned nothing is impossible, even if I tend to forget. If i can't climb every mountain now, I allow myself to dream and to give myself the means to reach their summit one day. I accept I can't see further than tomorrow. I avoid making scenarios about what could happen. Things will happen... or not anyway. I learned to do things instead of regretting.

Yes, I hate myself for forgetting. For going back to bad habits I thought I got rid of. For stressing without good reasons. For forgetting I promised myself I wouldn't compromise. For getting mad at traffic jams. For losing patience for all those things that aren't happening fast enough. For forgetting to dream. For sinking into routine.

I hope I will never forget, and up above all this, I hope I'll go again. Often. And that the best friends in the world, I found all around the globe, will always remind me.

Despite not flying as often as I wanted, I've met again with Ross and Peter in Ottawa, Louiza in New York, Casey in Philadelphia, Uriel and Alex in California, Morti in Montreal, Janet-Lee in Québec, Kim, Marit and Erik in Amsterdam, and Julie and Philippe a few minutes from home. And it means the world to me. And there is all of those I haven't met again in person yet, who I still can reach on Skype and Facebook. Too bad for those who thought those friendships would fade away. Those people, I still miss them every day.

At least, no matter how much it cost me to travel, I now know that I'm richer because of it. And egotistically, I want to keep that fortune to myself.