Starting with India in the dark

The second day in Delhi has started oddly. After a night in the cold, because there is no heating in hotels and the temperature drops a lot at night, I hear something knocking on the window of my room... on the fourth floor. Pigeon! The problem is that there is a hole above the fan in the bathroom... and the pigeon uses this entrance to visit the hotel. That explains droppings in the shower... and on towels provided by the hotel .

Considering the presence of an unwanted visitor, I was allowed to change rooms for the second night.

While I was having lunch, a couple composed of an Indian man and a South African woman arrived. They just opened their travel agency in Delhi. I talked with them throughout my meal and decided to see with them if there was a possibility they could book me a train ticket to Varanasi.

Like all agencies, they drew up an entire itinerary for me. Maybe the catch is there, but the presence of the South African girl who herself lived in Austria, Germany and now in India, reassures me. I can not imagine that she would want to rip me off. After lengthy discussions, I agree to do business with them. A little more expensive then I expected for the whole trip, but at least they will book all train tickets and flights I need, a complex task for any stranger.

Generally, in Delhi, it is recommended to go directly to the train station to book a ticket. Otherwise, the Lonely Planet recommends the official government agency, but be aware several offices scammers have taken that name around town to confuse tourists. Anke and Omer, from my agency, say that even the government agency refers us to places where they receive a commission. Who to believe?



People from my agency also will pick me up in each train station, reserve my hotel and organize a camel safari in Jaisalmer and a day on a boat in Alleppey in the south. Whew!

They invited me for dinner, have paid the bill, and invited me to spend the evening at their place the night before my departure for home.

I drank a lot of chai with them and I left the office just before dark.

It was my first chance to explore Delhi by myself. First moments in the subway.

The Delhi Metro is particularly effective. Must pass the security to be admitted. There is a line for women, one for men. Then buy a token from the vending machine when they are not broken, or at the counter .

The token is used as a magnetic card to pass the barriers. You will need to insert it into a slot to come out of the station. The price is set according to the distance, in my case, between 10 and 15 rupees.

Yes, the subway is crowded. Almost always. And everyone runs to get a seat when possible. More room for another passenger? Yes, there's always room.

I went to Khan Market station, went out at a random door and have started to walk towards the Lodi Garden. Night had fallen during the journey.

It's dark and I sail by instinct across the crowded market and to the main road. To cross the street, do as elsewhere in Asia : start slowly in traffic and hope for the best.

The garden is bathed in darkness and fog. It has mystery and uncertainty at the same time. Had a feeling that this was perhaps not the best idea. But since I'm here.

I slowly walked through the park, between the mausoleums magical vube by this strange atmosphere. God knows what danger was watching me in that park, I, the only white guy a little lost in the middle of Delhi.

I finished my tour in one piece and have taken the subway, encountering homeless by fires on street corners. And I walked to my hotel, not without getting hassled by rickshaw drivers who wanted for sure to be my friend.

I ended the evening eating in a greasy small corner shop restaurant in the pure Indian tradition : four tables at the bottom of a small stall in a dark street, with the cook who cooks his meals on the edge of the street.